Jean-Luc Colombo Through the Eyes of Ian Ribowsky

“I carry the passion. I’m always looking for that wine that takes my breath away.” – Ian Ribowsky

Wine ambassador for Jean-Luc Colombo, Ian Ribowsky is quite quotable. He spoke with passion as we tasted through six wines from Provence and Cornas, two rosés from Provence and four reds from Cornas. The reds, of course are 100% Syrah as is mandated by law in Cornas in the Northern Rhone.

The Jean-Luc Colombo Cape Bleue Rosé, 2015 Méditerranée IGP, is ballet pink in the glass with a balance to match a well-executed arabesque. With 67% Syrah and 33% Mouvedre, aromas of strawberry, melon, peach, spice and roses comes through. The cold soak and cold ferment give the wine its bright acidity, soft mineral finish and the clean lines of a polished ballerina.

The Jean-Luc Colombo La Dame du Rouet Rosé, 2015, Coteaux d’Aix en Provence, is a blend of Syrah, Cinsaut and Grenache. There is no destemming, nor MLF in making this wine. All the focus in on the primary aromas of ripe cantaloupe, white peach, and flowers. The finish is a bracing acidity that makes this a very food-friendly rosé.

Jean-Luc Colombo Terres Brulées, 2013, Cornas, is a dense, dark ruby with medium staining on the glass. 15 months in oak with grapes sourced from 30 year old vines produces not just dense color, but dense aromatics as well. There are layers of blackberry, black cherry, menthol, tobacco, black currant, and iris. The tannins and acidity are moderate plus, but the alcohol is moderate, giving the wine a strong, but elegant structure.

Jean-Luc Colombo Terres Brulées, 2009, Cornas is from the same vines as the previous wine, but an older vintage. The years turned the color from ruby to garnet and added dried fruit and licorice aromas with a hint of dustiness.

Jean-Luc Colombo Les Ruchets, 2013, Cornas is made from grapes from 90 year old vines. The berries are small, but the structure is great, hitting moderate plus on tannin, acid and alcohol. The color is deep ruby with aromas of rose, black cherry, vanilla, leather, earth and mineral. Still young, with great potential for aging.

Jean-Luc Colombo L Louvée, 2013, Cornas is from 70 year vines, with 22 months in oak, including 33% in new oak. The structure is moderate plus on acid, tannin with moderate on alcohol. The aromas are blueberry, black berry clack cherry, licorice, leather, thyme, lavender and a hint of olive.

Everyone in the room agreed the Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas wines are all beautifully structured and aromatically complex.

When asked what the oldest wine in his personal collection was, Ian Ribowsky referenced a 2000 bottle. Then in his very quotable way he said, ‘Wine is here to enjoy. We’re here to enjoy it, not hoard it.”

Five Things I Have Learned from Tim Gaiser…so far


Sitting in on a webinar with Tim Gaiser is almost as good as hearing him speak in person. Tim Gaiser is a Master Sommelier who has made an art and science out of wine tasting. He studies wine tasting with a deep intellectual curiosity that keeps his talks fresh and fascinating. There is always more to learn about wine and wine tasting. Here are five things that I learned last week at Mastering the Sommelier Tasting Method with Tim Gaiser a webinar hosted by the Napa Valley Wine Academy.

  1. There are now seven tastes rather than five. The original five tastes are Sweet, Sour, Bitter, Salty and Umami which is MSG. The two that have been added are Fat and Kokumi which is dairy.
  1. Floral aromas are best perceived at the edge of the glass.
  2. Pyrazines or bell pepper aromas are found in three types of wine; Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc. All three grapes are related. They’ve kept pyrazines in the family.
  3. Determine residual sugar on the finish. It is easy to confuse ‘fruit forward’ with residual sugar. But the sweetness of ripe fruit will be perceived on the front. The sweetness of residual sugar will linger with the finish.
  4. The most popular phrase with consumers when selling wine is ‘…a smooth finish.’

Wine tasting, like any skill, takes study, focus and practice. But gaining insight from a Master is invaluable in honing the skill.

The Matriarchs of Lodi, Part II: Meeting Wanda Bechthold


P1020504Jessie’s Grove was founded in 1868 by Joseph and Anna Spenker, distant relatives of Chuck Spenker of Spenker Winery. Jessie was the daughter of Joseph and Anna and the  grandmother of Wanda Bechthold, the matriarch of Jessie’s Grove.

Now in its 5th generation with some of the original vines dating back to the 19th century, this vineyard has stories to tell. Fortunately, the vineyard has Wanda to tell them. She has dug so deeply into her family history and the stories of the vineyard, she recreates events that happened 150 years ago. Her stories come to life with colorful detail. She channels her ancestors through changing voices as she shares her family stories complete with P1020509dialogue.

P1020537Jessie’s Grove Royal Tee is made from ancient vine Zinfandel, vines that were planted 125 years ago by Wanda’s great grandfather.  The wine is rich and complex with gorgeous, fruit, well-integrated into its smooth structure. Like Wanda’s story telling, this Zin brings to life the rich history of the vineyard.

The Matriarchs of Lodi; Part I: Meeting Peggy Fry


P1020472For the opening reception of the Wine Bloggers Conference we were graciously treated to an evening at the Mohr-Fry Ranch. The evening included a lovely catered meal by Paul’s Rustic Oven Pizza and a live bluegrass band, Snap Jackson and the Knock on Wood Players, and, of course there was lots of Lodi wine. The weather was perfect and the company was great. But the thrill of the evening was meeting Peggy Fry, matriarch of the Mohr-Fry Ranch.peggy-fry.jpg.jpeg

Many wineries purchase grapes from the Mohr-Fry Ranch including Michael David, Abundance, Ironstone, Macchia and St. Amant. While 12 different varieties are grown on the 225 acres, the ranch is best known for its old vine Zin, The Mohr-Fry vineyard designation on a bottle of Zinfandel is a guarantee that the wine will be full-bodied and rich tasting.

I have long been a fan of Zinfandels sourced from the Mohr-Fry Ranch, so it was quite delightful to stand in the vineyards while tasting the wines. But to be on the ranch sipping the wine while chatting with Peggy Fry was a bit of a thrill. Peggy and Bruce Fry had us out to their ranch on their 53rd wedding anniversary. Happy Anniversary, Peggy and Bruce. Thank you for your gracious hospitality. And thanks for the Zins!

Lodi, Come for the Zin, Stay for the Cabernet, Carignan, Petit Sirah, Sangiovese, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc…


Of course Lodi is known for its beautiful Zinfandels. But there’s more growing in those vineyards. Here’s a quick look at some of the wines other than Zinfandel that we tasted at the Wine Bloggers’ Conference, 2016 in Lodi.

Klinker Brick’s single vineyard Syrah has aromas of smoked meat, spice and dark fruit with floral notes on the finish. Their Cabernet Suavignon is black cherries, rose petals and oaky earthiness.

Abundance Vineyards makes a Carignan that is earthy with dark fruit aromas and just enough acid to carry the finish.

Oak Ridge makes a Cabernet Sauvignon with aromas of forest floor and red and black currants

Langetwins make a Nero d’Avola that is medium bodied with soft tannins and red fruit, a good food wine.P1020557

Prie Winery’s Cabernet Sauvignon is herbal with aromas of bell pepper and red fruit. It has bold tannins and a structure that is both fresh and complex.

Peirano Estate’s The Other is a Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah mix with lots of earth aromas along with the bright red and deep black fruit.

Heritage Oak makes a beautiful Sangiovese full of red fruit and a lively acidity that was absolutely stunning with a kale salad.

But Lodi isn’t just about the reds. Because of the big diurnal swing in temperature, Lodi enjoys cool nights which is why it is able to grow white grapes with acidic structure.

Michael David makes a Sauvignon Blanc in 100% stainless preserving its crisp acidity and aromas of grass and grapefruit.

P1020496Klinker Brick’s rosé is made from the southern Rhone trio, Grenache, Syrah and Mouvedre, with aromas of spice and floral and a mineral finish.

Oak Ridge makes an Old Soul Chardonnay that has crisp pear and apple with a touch of vnailla and spice.

Lodi has built its reputation on its big, deep Zinfandels, but this little wine town is branching out into many other varietals with great success.

“…their frangrance will be like the wine of Lebanon.” Hosea 14:7


Founded in 1857 by Jesuit Priests, Chateau Ksara is the oldest commercial winery in the Bekaa Valley of Lebanon. Fine wine making in Lebanon, however, goes back thousands of years. In Biblical times Lebanese wines were held up as the standard for all wines. And why wouldn’t they be? The vineyards in the Bekaa Valley are planted at higher altitudes. Some of Chateau Ksara’s vineyards are planted at 3600 feet. The 75 mile long valley has a Mediterranean climate with the viticultural benefits of a rain shadow effect from Mount Lebanon producing 240 sunny days a year for fully ripened grapes. Breezes are common in the valley, which, along with the moderating effects of the two rivers, the Orontes and the Litani and the big diurnal swing, from the 50’s Fahrenheit at night to the high 80’s during the day work to preserve the beautiful acidity of the grapes.

The grapes grown in the vineyards of Chateau Ksara are predominantly French reds such as Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Those are the grapes in their Reserve du Couvent, 2013. The wine is a deep ruby color with a garnet rim, very viscous with a medium plus intensity in aroma. The fruits are both tart and ripe, red currant, red cherry, black cherry and bramble berry. Intermixed with the fruit are aromas of fennel, clove, vanilla and charred wood. There is quite a bit of structure to this wine with a playful acidity and a meaty body, it is both juicy and harmonious. After tasting Chateau Ksara Reserve du Couvent it becomes very clear that to be compared to the fragrance of ‘…the wine of Lebanon,’ is high praise indeed.

*I was given this wine as a sample.  It is the first Lebanese wine that I have had and I didn’t know what to expect, though I was hoping I’d like it.  It was very easy to like, so well structured and lovely.  Had I purchased it, I would consider it a great value, as it retails under $20.

Dinner at Spenker Winery

P1020450Founded in 1869 as a train stop for the Central Pacific Railroad, Lodi began as a farming community known for wheat and watermelons. Lodi was also known, early on for grapes. Since the 19th century Lodi has moved from the Tokay grape to the Zinfandel grape. Home to over 80 wineries and a downtown bursting with fine restaurants, Lodi presents itself with the sophistication of a city in the charm of a small town. At its heart, Lodi is still a farming community.

SpenkerWineryChuck Spenker is a 3rd generation grower and Lodi farmer. His farm, Spenker Winery is located just west of downtown Lodi where he grows Petite Sirah, Muscat and Zinfandel. Dinner at Spenker Winery with the Spenker family includes not only their wines but their farm-made goat cheese, which was fresh and creamy and all the more tasty having met the goats  before dinner. Every goat is named, and every name fit, especially Shenanigans a mischievous character indeed.  P1020544

Though there are several things produced at Spenkers, it is the Zinfandel for which the winery and Lodi are best known. “Zinfandel has changed the way wine is made,” says Chuck Spenker. Because of its structure, Zinfandel is a grape that can withstand a longer hang time, especially in Lodi where the Delta breeze and cool nighttime temperatures maintain the natural acidity of the grape. A longer hang time produces a wine that is big enough to stand on its own. It can be enjoyed without food. But Chuck does believe in pairing his wines. According to Chuck Spenker you should always ‘pair your wine with your friends.’